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Armless Dragon Review

Paul Lane at Armless Dragon has been flying the flag for Welsh produce since 1999, and his neighbourhood bistro near Cardiff university thrives on unadorned simplicity and honest virtues.

He takes Wales as his jumping off point, but is happy to plunder ideas and ingredients from near and far. One look at his blackboard menus will tell you that there is plenty of lively endeavour here, backed up by an opened-minded global outlook.

Starter platters are tagged to the 'land' (smoked Monmouthshire chicken with avocado and Carmarthen ham crisps), 'sea' (Pembrokeshire spider crab tart and sea trout pancakes with dill yoghurt) and 'earth' (the Dragon's signature dish of laverballs with ginger-pickled vegetables).

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