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Bumpkin Review

Younger sister to the jam-packed Notting Hill favourite, the Old Brompton Road branch of Bumpkin aims to please South Kensington's country-loving urbanites with a taste of freewheeling British food and drink. Like its elder sibling, it occupies a gentrified rustic conversion of an old building - in this case spread over two floors and with the bonus of a heated alfresco terrace and a cocktail bar.

The kitchen shows its liking for 'funky' local and seasonal produce - especially if it comes from sustainable local sources: the owners buy their meat from Frank Godfrey (one of the few London butchers certified to deal in pure-bred Aberdeen Angus beef) and their organic fruit and veg are grown at Secretts Farm, near Guildford.

Flexible menus plough their way through 'deep pots and pies' (anything from fish to cow), seasonal soups, devilled chicken livers on toast and trencherman platefuls of pork belly with Red Friday apple sauce and braised cabbage, beer-battered fish, and organic salmon with chive butter and curly kale.

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