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The Cock Review

Is it a pub or is it a restaurant? In fact the rejuvenated Cock wears both hats and each aspect of the place has its own separate entrance. The restaurant side of things has an up-to-the-minute feel with stripped wood floors, pale colour schemes and a menu that bristles with lively modern ideas.

Homemade sausages with a choice of flavoured mash are listed on one blackboard, fish specials on another; otherwise the kitchen works to a repertoire that might embrace duck parcels with sweet-and-sour cucumber, herb-marinated chicken suprême with pumpkin and barley risotto, and dry-aged Aberdeen Angus steaks followed by coffee crème caramel or poached pears stuffed with apricots and Amaretto crème fraîche.

Landlord Richard Bradley and his colleagues are in empire-building mood and now also run The Boathouse at Ely and the Cambridge Chop House.

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