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The Empress of India Review

The Empress of India at Victoria Park is the latest addition to the bestselling Tom and Ed Martin show and it has no truck with gastro pub clichés: instead, it sets out its stall as an all-day café-cum-restaurant, serving everything from breakfast, lunch and afternoon tea to full-blown evening meals with a 'Hope and Glory' British accent.

As you might expect, colonial India is the theme in this re-invented Victorian tavern, with features including hand-painted silk wallpaper depicting the days of the Raj, a huge Art Deco mirror rescued from a derelict cinema in Calcutta, a mosaic tiled floor and dark beechwood tables.

The kitchen takes a trip through time for dressed crab, game pie with Savoy cabbage and chestnuts, spotted dick with custard – and every dish is a memory-jerker.

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