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Fat Olives Review

Lawrence and Julia Murphy's intimate, brasserie-style restaurant occupies a tiny seventeenth-century fisherman's cottage on a street running down to Emsworth quay. Inside, it has been given a smart minimalist look, with bare wood tables and whitewashed walls; there's also the bonus of a pleasant courtyard, which is ideal for long summer lunches.

The kitchen offers some unusual takes on Mediterranean-inspired dishes: a salad of roast sweetbreads and pancetta gets an elderflower dressing, while monkfish appears with smoked haddock ravioli, mussel cream and truffle oil.

Elsewhere, there are novel eclectic touches such as tuna carpaccio with bean salad, seaweed salsa and black olive tapenade, as well as more traditional ideas including medallions of pork with black pudding and bubble 'n' squeak and seasonal roast partridge with bread sauce and watercress.

Desserts could range from honey-roasted figs with baked cheesecake slice to a nostalgic kid's-party throwback involving raspberry jelly, ice cream and sponge.

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