Merseyside's new Michelin star is a rather modest-looking spot right in the middle of the conservation village of Oxton. Chef/patron Marc Wilkinson knows this place like the back of his hand – he used to cook here some 14 years ago when it was The Rondelle. Fraiche may be small, but it is – as they say – perfectly formed: a modest 20-cover dining room decorated in subdued contemporary colours with coffee-coloured upholstery and high-backed chairs.
Creating intense flavours and challenging the palate are high on the agenda (how about loin of English lamb with a cube of Earl Grey jelly and a ball of deep-fried sweetbreads, or Anjou pigeon on pickled cherries with Serrano ham and cherry salad?), and any chef who can juggle menus running from two to 12 courses is clearly on top of his game.
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