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The Galley Review

A converted 300-year-old cottage overlooking the Exe estuary, the Galley remains one of the focal points of affluent Topsham (just outside Exeter). Paul Da-Costa-Greaves' passion is fish and he goes about his trade with almost missionary zeal, following the principles of 'yin yang' and Buddhist values.

Supplies arrive daily from the local boats and from Devon ports such as Brixham and the results on the plate are zingily exotic: consider grilled John Dory with Bombay potatoes, coriander, spiced mango and cream or 'a magical explosion' of grilled halibut fillets on seaweed, parsnip and celeriac mash garnished with chilli ice cream, ginseng and caviar butter sauce.

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