Like its elder sibling in Battersea, this neighbourhood brasserie takes newspapers as its theme, and it does a useful service by providing creditable French bourgeois food right through the day. Call in for a light breakfast, lunch or an afternoon pick-me-up; otherwise pull out all the stops in the evening.
'Plats du jour' such as tomato tartare with grain mustard or roast lamb chops with wild mushrooms, lemon and thyme bolster the 'menu principal', which might offer pan-fried foie gras with apple and chestnuts, calf's liver with red wine sauce and macaroni gratin or roast cod with caramelised parsnips and meat jus.
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