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Hotel Felix, Graffiti Review

A seriously extended Victorian mansion with its own courtyard is the setting for Hotel Felix – the epitome of twenty-first century chic in suburban Cambridge. The Graffiti restaurant is an ultra-modern, single-storey extension beyond the car park, with views over the terrace and three acres of landscaped gardens. It makes a stylish setting for ambitious modern European cooking with an emphatic Mediterranean accent and some unlikely twists.

Cornish spider crab spring rolls are served with green apple jelly and apple espuma, Isle of Skye scallops are paired with chorizo risotto, while pan-fried pink bream keeps company with caramelised turnip puree, Jerusalem artichoke chips, baby leeks and cep vinaigrette.

Meat and game also show up strongly, whether it's slow-cooked cushion of veal and blanquette with polenta cake, sweet garlic and bayleaf foam or roast rump of Denham Estate venison with prune puree, a venison faggot and red cabbage.

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