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Hotel du Vin at One Devonshire Gardens Review

One of Glasgow's most auspicious addresses, One Devonshire Gardens has been given the Hotel du Vin treatment and is the group's first acquisition north of the border. The place itself – a collection of Victorian buildings in a fashionable tree-lined terrace – has lost none of its class or sheen, although it's now firmly in the 'luxury boutique hotel' mould.

The refurbished, oak-panelled bistro provides a relaxed, yet chic setting for Darin Campbell's exciting modern food: he mixes intricate contemporary ideas with brasserie classics; his daily menu fizzes with confidence and he doesn't stint on the luxuries – witness lobster ravioli with glazed fennel and sauce Nantua, a 'club sandwich' of foie gras with apricot purée or Dover sole roasted on the bone with parsnip purée, spring onions, black trompettes and cumin velouté.

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