Those who know their French will recognise that 'enclume' means 'anvil' – a reference to the fact that this gastronomic star is located in the bare bones of an 800-year-old smithy. You wouldn't recognise the place now – although an anvil is, of course, on display.
Simon Rogan's ground-breaking cooking continues to make waves in the guide books (Michelin star included) and the emphasis here is emphatically on tastes, textures and fragrances – often from wild herbs, roots and flowers that deserve to come back into favour.
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