A living and breathing example of infectious good humour, Le Colombier, a textbook Chelsea bistro in a converted pub impresses with its warmth and honest French cooking. The big-windowed dining room feels like home, and there's a terracotta-tiled terrace for alfresco meals.
The menu spells out its loyalties in two languages: for those with Gallic inclinations there might be tranche de foie gras, soupe de poissons, entrecôte béarnaise and carré d'agneau, while Brits should sympathise with grilled calf's liver, Dover sole and rabbit in cider sauce.
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