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Malmaison Review

A converted Greek Orthodox church is the stunning setting for the Glasgow branch of the national Malmaison hotel group. Once a fashionable place of worship, it now boasts ornate wrought ironwork on the staircase and a spherical chandelier at the entrance.

The Champagne bar and brasserie is a self-styled 'moody and magnificent' space in the vaulted basement, where you can sample modern dishes along the lines of red mullet escabeche followed by grilled lemon sole with anchovy tempura and coriander butter or roast breast of duck with pak choi and chilli.

If you fancy something simpler, there might also be moules marinière or the Mal burger with homemade relish and fries, while desserts could range from Jaffa orange and dark chocolate sponge pudding to a 'cosmopolitan' parfait' spiked with vodka, Cointreau and a citrus twist.

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