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Phoenix Palace Review

The location - beneath a monolithic apartment block not far from Baker Street tube station - is pure downtown London, but the Phoenix Palace still manages to look and feel like Hong Kong. A cascading water feature, silk flower displays and all manner of unusual screens help to create just the right mood, while the waitresses are as engagingly willing and helpful as can be.

A long, enticing list of daytime dim sum encompasses everything fram familar steamed crab and coriander dumplings or glutinous rice in lotus leaves to Macau chicken 'pie', grilled chicken gyoza dumplings and stuffed courgettes with black bean sauce; at lunchtime you can also get fascinating one-plate dishes like fried rice with dried scallops and egg white or Japanese udon noodles in bean paste soup with king prawns.

The full menu is a 200-dish tome taking in stir-fried eel with garlic and tangerine peel, stir-fried chicken with cashews, pig's trotters with vinaigrette and gutsy, peasant-style hotpots (minced pork with aubergines, for example).

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