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Plumed Horse Restaurant Review

Having wowed the punters and gained a Michelin star in Crossmichael, Tony Borthwick decided to saddle up and gallop across to the fashionable environs of Leith on the outskirts of Edinburgh. He has retained the original restaurant name and nothing is about to change in the kitchen - he has even re-gained his much-treasured red-book accolade.

The cooking here is as painstaking and diligent as ever, menus are concise and perfectly balanced (just four choices for each course) and ingredients are impeccably sourced – whether it's seafood from the Scottish ports or pork from Black Iberian pigs.

To start, there's renowned chicken and foie gras sausage 'toad-in-the-hole' with Sauternes golden raisins or twice-baked Parmesan and winter truffle soufflé with tomato and cucumber salad, while main courses are likely to be intricate ideas like poached and roasted Anjou squab with celeriac purée, parsnips, Brussels sprouts and truffled poaching liquor or pan-fried fillet of halibut in company with sautéed scallops, smoked haddock mash and a Vermouth and fish velouté.

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