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St James Review

This neatly designed modern Bushey restaurant boasts wooden floors, exposed brickwork, red pillars and a big picture window looking out onto the nearby church of St James (who else?). Halo motifs pop up everywhere, and the mood is easy-going but business-like.

The kitchen works to a modern repertoire with noticeable French and Mediterranean overtones, witness dishes like pan-fried crab cake with caramelised red onion and beetroot salad, herb-crusted best end of lamb with courgette rösti, tomato and garlic essence, and whole sea bass with fennel and mixed vegetables.

There are also a few forays to faraway places for - say - spicy meatballs with Feta salad and chilli jam, while desserts could range from jam sponge pudding to Toblerone cheesecake.

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