Like its younger brother in Liverpool, this sprawling Chinese eating house is located on the first floor above a Chinese supermarket (a couple of miles drive out of the city). Tai Pan's food is more important than its décor; you can either play safe and opt for the standard 'English' menu – which offers things like crispy duck, sliced beef in oyster sauce and so forth – or take the plunge and explore the delights of the 'Chinese only' alternative.
Seafood is a major strength, from steamed scallops and lobster with ginger and spring onions on a bed of noodles to deep-fried crispy oysters with seasoned salt.
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