Kevin Viner was Cornwall's first Michelin-starred chef and continues to champion the produce of the county in his latest venture - a converted pub among the timeshare cottages of Carvynick Country Club.
The whole place has a bucolic, farmhouse feel and the action is now spread over two floors. In the kitchen, there's also a determination to trim down any culinary excesses, by-pass fashionable gimmicks and keep things flexible: 'casual fine dining' means that visitors can call in for a leisurely drink and a snack or a full meal.
A plate of Falmouth Bay native oysters or twice-baked West Country soufflé with cream and spring onions strike just the right regional note, and main courses pick up the theme: steamed fillet of line-caught sea bass is served with lobster velouté and sauce Américaine, while pot-roast shoulder of Cornish lamb might be accompanied by char-grilled vegetables and red wine jus.
There's always something for vegetarians (lemon and thyme risotto with shaved Parmesan and roasted pine nuts, for example), and desserts could include a version of bread-and-butter pudding made famous at Kevin Viner's previous restaurant, Pennypots in Maenporth.
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