Wiltons began life as a shellfish stall in 1742 and has always been resident in St James's - a suitably swanky location for a restaurant that is respected the world over as a classic. With its uniformed doorman and well-drilled staff it feels rather like a gentleman's club - an image reinforced by the 'jacket and tie' policy, the immaculately laid tables and ultra-conservative menu.
There's nothing to frighten here, just a patriotic line-up of potted shrimps, lobster thermidor, grilled lamb cutlets or Dover sole meunière.
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